Roadbook Ramblings: Chapter 4 - From Baltic to Arctic

 Welcome to the fourth and final chapter of Roadbook Ramblings! 

Let's begin with numbers: 5 legs. 62 stages. 469.7 kilometres (291.9 miles).

Those are the tangible bits; ones that matter to you, the driver. It's what you will experience from your point of view. Rest is not as important for the competition, but I've gone through the trouble so might as well share it with you lot - assuming you're still reading these. Or, if this is the first one you read, welcome!

Full roadbook will be published tomorrow (Friday, 26th of January). Below is a leg-by-leg description of the route, its stops, and general nature. Sit down, grab a drink, and put a coat on - Finland's not warm!

 

Finlandia route map. Leg finishes also indicate overnight halts in most cases.

Leg 1 (Helsinki - Veikkola)

9 stages - 31.9km/19.8 miles

The rally starts, as established, in Helsinki. Namely, the official start is straight to the first stage that takes in Olympiastadion. Built for the 1952 Summer Olympics in Helsinki, it has since become an important monument and a frequent host of various events. Putting a rally there might just be delusions of grandeur in my parts, but I like to think it would've been at least a consideration in real life, too.

From there we come to first of many compromises of the stage: The lack of a suitable park stage.

 

See, there was a race in Helsinki called Eläintarhanajot, or "Eltsu" for short. Its history has been told in many articles, stories, and books, so I'll just give you the short of it: hosted from 1932 to 1963 (with a break during the war, naturally), it was the largest racing event in Finland. Due to its prominent location and easy access, spectators numbering in tens of thousands gathered to witness best riders and drivers of the era tackle a 2km (1.2 mile) asphalt course. It was dangerous from its infancy, and eventually was cancelled after a start line accident claimed the life of a Swedish driver Örjan Atterberg, his Formula Junior overturning following a collision. 

By the early 90's, "Eltsu" is firmly a thing of the past, but the roads still exist, and so does the park. Furthermore, it's conveniently located right next to the Olympic stadium. So, why not build a rally stage there, and pay tribute to past greats? 

It's something I firmly believe would've suited the event. It's just too good of a match to ignore. But, since we don't have a suitable stage and I just couldn't in good conscience use Harju here, we get Lyon-Gerland instead. No, it's not attempting to mimic Eltsu, but instead the roads next to the stadium.

 

After the first two stages we move out from Helsinki and towards the north. Kerava hosted some tarmac events in real life, including a round of Miljoonaralli. It's only natural we stop there for a service, too, before heading towards Hyvinkää and its rallycross course.

From there we veer back, but not south via the motorway. Instead, we head southwest using those lovely, flowing backroads, few of which are used for special stages. Järventausta is a small village located in Nurmijärvi, and notably hosts the only pure gravel stage of the rally. From there we approach Espoo, currently the second largest city in Finland and still desperately trying to claim it's more than a suburb of Helsinki. Here we find Velskola recreation centre and its adjacent tarmac road, perfect for some winter rallying action - if the winter had remembered to arrive.

Yeah, it's at this point you might be wondering about all this tarmac and gravel jazz.

See, Finland is a Nordic country. Very much so. But due to Gulf stream, Nordics are a bit warmer than one not living here might expect. While snow is a yearly occurrence pretty much in the entire country, sometimes it can happen very later in winter. That was the case in the early 90's too, and this just so happens to be one of the years when January was dark and miserable, but not snowy. Well, not on the first day. Temperatures hovered just above zero, while windchill and a constant serving of cold drizzle made it feel much less. Needless to say, the tourism board wasn't chuffed, especially as it all looked good just a few days before.

Of course, this may all be a convenient excuse to cover the lack of urban winter stages in RSF. 

In any case, we move on and put emphasis on the "dark and miserable" mentioned above. By the time drivers reach Oittaa, sun has long since bid them adieu. To compensate, I decided to be kind in my choice of stag-

Checks roadbook

 

 
-Uh, ignore that. Anyway, Oittaa represents the border between less and more urban areas of Espoo, so we take a short drive towards Kirkkonummi, where our day will end via two more stages.

First among them is Heinäs, a small road heading to a suburban area and one that was imagined to be that much better when snow-covered. The day ends in the town of Veikkola, which back then was a lowkey hub of southern Finnish rally enthusiasts due to its convenient location and comparatively low lot & housing prices. Its small industrial hub and connecting roads play host to a small stage and a service park. After repairs, drivers head back to Espoo and the national park of Nuuksio for overnight accommodation.  

Yes, overnight accommodation was a thought. More on that later.

The first leg may be short, but what it lacks in distance it makes up in possibilities of an early exit. Especially stages 6 and 7 will prove difficult after a bunch of super specials and a gravel run.

Leg 2 (Veikkola - Jämsä)

12 stages - 83.7km/52 miles

Second morning is still a night by the time alarm clocks ring across the cabins. The lack of total darkness outside reveals snow; organisers sigh in relief, while competitors prepare for what's going to be a long and difficult day. 

Their suspicions are proven true as the first stage in Kylmälä is still more or less tarmac, and as such slippery. From there we move southwest, further from Helsinki and the conditions are getting increasingly wintery. Some remnants of gravel can be seen near the village of Kela, going by its Swedish name, but by the time drivers reach the town of Siuntio, it's as if the misery of day one is but a distant memory. Good thing too, because there's plenty of stages to drive. Even so, it almost feels like a transitional leg for many, as the real challenges are expected to lie further north.

First service of the day is in the village of Lappohja, or Lappers, from where the route heads north. You really have to squint for Varttila, Kotamäki, Ojajärvi, and Renkovaha on the map. Hakolahti is similarly small, taking place after the midday service park. Lastunen is a familiar road to many Finns, before those few precious hours of daylight give way for the night. Three more stages take place in darkness, day two ending at the slopes of Himos ski centre, all too happy to offer overnight accommodation in what is no doubt a lucrative deal.

Music blares through the night as rally and afterski meet each other in beautiful cacophony. Drivers and teams try their best to grab some sleep, for it's going to be another early morning.

Leg 3 (Jämsä - Kuopio - Koli)

16 stages - 102.8km/63.9 miles

Groans and headache greet many a tourist. It's morning after the night before, one that shows no mercy. Those waking up as cleaner knocks on the door curse under their breath, having missed the morning run of what's called "Patalahti" but is really the reverse version of a stage near Himos. 

From here on out those stage names may feel… oddly familiar!

Now, winter rallies near and at Jyväskylä aren't uncommon, yet it must feel weird to start from Helsinki and soon find yourself taking on Ehikki, blasting past those 1000 frozen lakes on your way to Jyväskylä. Killervä is located on a horse racing track, named after a nearby lake, and also offers a service opportunity. 

Route takes the rally straight north for a bit, before turning northeast just before the town of Äänekoski. Deep in Finnish Lakeland now, it's notable how each village seems smaller than the last, each forest more formidable than the one before, and those snowbanks just get seemingly bigger and bigger on the road to Kuopio. Savo is a region famous for its lighthearted folks and local delicasies as well as a dialect that one simply cannot miss. There's just about time to enjoy some kalakukko - fish baked inside a loaf of bread - as mechanics service those beaten vehicles to the best of their ability. Then it's time to head east, from Kuopio to North Karelia.

Hi, Onza.

Last few stages of day three include a part-ice test near the city of Joensuu, and a high-speed drive towards one of Finland's most famous tourist destinations: Koli. 

Its hotel has a restaurant famous for local delicacies such as genuine bear meat. The ski centre is surprisingly good by Finnish standards. The hills themselves are some of the oldest rock one can get their hands on, with the same glacial scattergun that created those thousands of lakes also eroding a lot of them away, leaving behind hills that are genuinely fascinating from a geological perspective. And if minerals are not your thing, you may take solace in the view from the top of Ukko-Koli towards lake Pielinen, featured in many a painting and photograph. While at its best in summer, it's no less humbling in winter. There's a reason that particular spot is chosen as Finland's national landscape.

Koli may not be known for its nightlife quite like Himos, but the music is still playing long into the night. Drivers? Let's hope they sleep well; they're gonna need it for a long drive north. After all, their next night is going to be spent in yet another ski resort, this one perhaps the most famous in the entire country...

Leg 4 (Koli - Vuokatti - Ruka)

 12 stages - 104.5km/64.9 miles

Day 4. Looking at a map, you've gone a long way. From Helsinki to Koli in three days is a rally in and as itself, and a long one at that. But, in terms of distance driven, it's less than halfway. And today is going to be a step further into Finnish taiga.

Highways? Nah, no chance. Dual carriageways only from here on out, with the occasional added lane to provide a chance to pass those lorries and other slower transport.

The concept of "next town over" starts to change here, and those foreign to these latitudes start to notice that. No doubt one or two will start to wonder if they missed a turn or took a wrong one somewhere, or why these roads were even built in the first place. Surely nobody lives here, right? ...Right?

From North Karelia, the next stop is Kainuu. Sparsely populated, and home to yet more harsh yet beautiful terrain. Lakes are not quite as vast as before, but they are still ever-present. Space left over is taken by dense forests and terrain that is surprisingly hilly. We drive along the smaller roads, a lot of which have been turned into special stages. Some may be shorter, but others are long blasts through unforgiving, dark roads with dense, high banks of snow on both sides.  

Day service and break will be held in Vuokatti Ski Resort, larger in terms of hill size than last few ones. Little do we know that in following few decades, this town will turn into a hotspot of skiing excellence, building the first ski tunnel in Finland and expanding its facilities to provide world-class training. For now though, it is merely enthusiastic, counting more as a village than a town by international standards. Nonetheless, the chance to rest up both cars and drivers will surely be appreciated after what has been a hectic morning.

Leaving Vuokatti, houses become fewer and further between, those masses of spectators from early portions are but a distant memory. Temperatures drop as the day turns to night. Aside from the sounds of cars blasting by at steady intervals, the atmosphere is quiet. Very quiet. Those who haven't experienced nights at these latitudes can hardly believe just how quiet it can truly get. 

Eventually, the roads reach the town of Kuusamo, which has an airport and everything! Those thinking it's here where their day ends will be sorely mistaken though, as maps show them heading even further north. A relatively short blast with a few special stages to cash in on the ski tourists takes them to the village of Ruka, most known for its... ski centre. Starting to notice a theme here?

Taking in the sights, some may wonder if they landed in the Alps. Only thing missing are the mountains, replaced by hills and fells, but the buildings look very similar. Of course, those actually from the Alpine region - or just frequent visitors - will soon point out that this is an imitation at best and mockery at worst. Those houses? Bit too new. Amenities? Nice, but ultimately lacking that proper charm. Accommodations are nice though, and aplenty - surely appreciated by those who have now sat four days in their cars, taking on increasingly long days.

So, another day, another afterski meeting the travelling fans. Parties once more go on well into the night, but if some foolish Joe thinks this is a good time to let off some steam and start taking it easy? Well, Senor Joe, the numbers don't lie, and they spell disaster for you in Lapland!

Leg 5 (Ruka - Sodankylä - Rovaniemi)

 12 stages - 146.8km/91.2 miles

 Leg 5. Day 5. You've made it this far! By this time, the early mornings are starting to take their toll. It's cold, everywhere. Step outside, and the condensation in your facial hair soon turns into ice. When even lighters struggle, can you imagine the task of starting a car? 

Nonetheless, when - or if - you get going, there's no smooth landing to be found. First stage is a blast around the edges of Ruka ski resort and the surrounding village. Those accustomed to forgiving, soft banks may struggle here, and the rest just shake their heads. Will there even be spectators, given the early hour and the likely hangover they'll be suffering from? That remains to be seen, and ultimately isn't your pirmary worry. No, that'd be still to come.

Koillismaa soon turns to Lapland proper, and the coordinates inform your close proximity towards the arctic circle. The line may - disappointingly - be invisible, unlike in the atlas, but at least there's signs along the road to keep you informed.

First stop of the day will be in Salla, where marrying your cousin is common and sibling is fine, too. These are landmark towns around this part of the country, folks. 6269 people in 5872 square kilometres (in 1990) mean plenty of room for social distancing, and also explains the first sentence. I mean... Pack hiking gear and a gun to ward off wolves just to ask the girl next door for a date, or pick someone living under your roof? Yeah, you might consider the option too.

In any case, from there on roads get even fewer and further between. So do towns. So does everything else; even forests struggle a bit at these latitudes. Landscape is Siberian in nature, but don't forget to keep that speed up - these will be the last chances to make up time. Savukoski will be another stop for a small service, before the drive up to Sodankylä, where electricity will once again be a thing.

This time service is not at a ski centre - organisers considered Levi as a possible stop on the route, but had to scrap those plans in an effort to cut a day off the rally. In its stead we get to visit the exciting Sodankylä horse racing track. Largely unused in winter, its grounds provide enough space for the convoy to get some repairs done, while crews will head to nearby town to maybe find a restaurant if they're lucky... and have the time. Then, it's time to take on the last stretch of the rally.

As the afternoon falls and so does the sun, drivers will head southwest. From Sodankylä along the smaller roads, they head nearly 200km south. No, it doesn't get any warmer. Back door to Rovaniemi means going by Rovaniemi International Airport, which is curiously built right on top of the aforementioned Arctic circle.

Many a tourist in Santa Claus Village will watch and wonder just what is going on as a convoy of rally cars passes by; those in the know will snap pictures, too. It will also play host to a meet and greet with the drivers after the finish, because someone thought that was a brilliant idea after 5 days of driving. But hey, at least drivers will get a chance to meet a man dressed up as a mythical being in order to get some kids on his lap, so there's that. 

A service is offered before crowds gather along the shores of river Ounas. The sounds and sights of rallying against the backdrop of descending sun make for a spectacular view, and if this was the finale, very few would complain. But instead they will once more head into the night for the final two stages, neither of them short.

It'll be long into the evening before drivers finally make it back to Rovaniemi, and into Hotel Pohjanhovi. Victors may get the trophies and champagne, along with reindeer pelts, but truthfully everyone who makes it here can rightfully consider themselves heroes.

Bonus ramblings

So, that was a lot of text. It was too much text, truth to be told. I doubt many of you read it, but if you did... thank you. And sorry, especially to the people of Salla. For those confused, the joke is a bit of a Finnish thing I simply couldn't resist. Besides, it's not my fault y'all inbred.

I wanted to add a few more thoughts before concluding what will most likely be the only blog post of its kind. There may be shorter form ramblings in the future, but no promises.

Firstly, about stage choices: It may not be first or second on one's mind, but frankly I wanted to underline just how short the days are. Sadly, we only have night as an option for some of the stages, which meant most of the rally takes place in daylight. Furthermore, the lack of adjustable night meant some compromises had to be made, because it's simply not logical to have a daylight stage after a night stage, not if you're trying to approach even a passing veneer of credibility. Mornings, of course, are an exception.

Secondly, I must admit that there's more than a hint of what could be called "creator provincialism" here. Veikkola was indeed a bit of a rally hub in late 1980's and early 90's, and even further into 2000's. However, the place wouldn't even cross my mind if I hadn't lived in Kirkkonummi - which Veikkola is a part of - myself, and more importantly if my best friend didn't happen to be from Veikkola. As such, I've spent many a summer there, and a lot of time in general. To me, it feels familiar, so much so that I could already picture the rally passing through there in my mind, as well as those roads that to most people will be just names in the roadbook.

Same applies for some other regions. I wanted the route to pass through Koli, not only because it makes sense but because it's a location close to my heart. We visited it frequently during summers and also in winter. Hotelli Koli really serves bear; I've eaten it.The landscape really is breathtaking. If you get a chance to visit, please do.

 

Acknowledgments

This rally is created in memory of and dedicated to Peter Geitel. 

Wish you would've been here to see your dream come to life - at least in spirit.